May 3, 2013. Dateline Berlin.
Never trust the guidebook. An
old lesson relearnt the hard way on a day out from the German capital by train
and bicycle. The anonymous author
promised some idyllic country cycling. It started well.
Dappled, sunlit woodland
still partly flooded by winter snowmelt; birdsong, and the smell of spring in
the air at last. But alas, the ground under our wheels. Cobbles.
Eager Dave on
his shiny new racing bike with its whippet thin wheels, dismounted and pushing
disconsolately for fear of a flat in the forest glade. And there goes Terri on
her sturdy shopper’s special, fat tyres gliding smoothly over the awful
boneshaking stones. Hare? Tortoise? Never underestimate an old lady bike.
Back on blissful tarmac,
another take on human endeavour in the landscape, and our faith in German
construction is restored by a real engineering marvel. Seven years in the
making from 1927, the Niederfinow ship hoist lifts and lowers massive cargo
barges 36 metres between two stretches of canal in a giant water-filled cradle.
Nearly a century on, the elegant steel structure, visible from miles around in the mostly featureless north German plain, is suffering the effects of corrosion.
But this being Germany, they’re building a whole new hoist
alongside. Just keep pedalling!
The German boat lift looks a bit like the Anderton lift in Cheshire, you may need to visit to make a comparison
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