What could be finer than a cooling sunset swim on a hot
summer’s day in the city? The German capital Berlin has a brilliantly organised
network of outdoor bathing spots, as well as miles of lakes and rivers offering
a wilder swimming experience.
A short bike ride from where I live in east Berlin is the
Weissensee, or white lake. Generations of Berliners have enjoyed its clear
waters since the first organised swimming facilities were built in the late 19th
century.
And not just for leisure – over the last century and a bit,
the site has hosted countless competitive swimming events, and was seen as a
valuable training resource during the post-war German Democratic Republic, the
old East Germany.
The lake itself forms pretty much a perfect circle around a kilometre across. A circuit takes around 45 minutes at my rather slow speed and the water quality is excellent, thanks to a natural spring which feeds the lake, and man-made protection against rainwater run-off from the surrounding streets.
It’s a strange sensation swimming in the Weissensee’s placid
waters as dusk falls. Jets from the city’s Tegel airport pass overhead every
few minutes, though thankfully not too low. The roar of traffic is muted by the
trees fringing the lake, but ever present. And trams clanking down the high
street remind you you’re still in the big city. Not exactly wild swimming, but
definitely one up from doing laps of an indoor pool.
Lifeguards are on hand when it’s busy and you’re supposed to
pay €4.50 to swim. In practice it’s usually free. One quirk: swimming costumes
are de rigueur at the Weissensee, unlike many of Berlin’s bathing spots, where
the FKK reigns supreme. That’s the Frei Körper Kultur – the, ahem, body
beautiful…..
Dave, this looks sooo lovely! The extra few degrees really seems to help make outdoor swimming more acceptable and hence there are more facilities. The freedom to swim without a wet suit (albeit I still like swimwear!) makes a big difference, I think.
ReplyDeleteThanks for this great post :-)